When Cheryl Tan asked a few of us to post family recipes to celebrate the release of her new book, “A Tiger in the Kitchen,” I wasn’t sure which one I’d choose, but I figured that since I was staying — and cooking — with mom in Texas, we’d come up with something fun.

This is an old favorite, and it seemed fitting, since Tan’s book is a memoir about tracing her family roots and culture through the dishes of her childhood in Singapore.

Cheryl and I bonded over our love of bacon a couple of years ago – she actually made a lattice-style bacon layer in a BLT — and have been meeting virtually (and globally) for lunch about every month since then. Together, we’ve noshed, our online friendship has grown, and I feel like I’ve been on the sidelines cheering (Cheryl, did you hear me?) as she moved through the transcontinental process of putting her book together.

Congrats again, Cheryl – *clink* — I’m thrilled to bits about your new title — author!

When the big iceapalooza hit North Texas recently, Mom and I decided that our one-day of vacation (little did we know it would be the first of many) would be a cooking day, and I requested that she make her famous spaghetti sauce, the same one from my childhood.

It always went like this: I’d come home from school, and Mom’s meaty, tomatoey sauce would be simmering in the big red enamel pot; my job was to set the table and lay out the red-and-white cloth napkins and get out the wax-covered Chianti bottle kept underneath the sink. When it was dinnertime, she’d light the candle, just as she and Daddy had done for years and years, and after dinner, we’d put it away until we had spaghetti again.

Spaghetti nights were always the most special of all.

After hundreds of batches of spaghetti, chili, and other big pot-things, Mom’s red pot was donated to Goodwill, and she replaced it, as you can see, with the prettiest blue Le Creuset.

When the temperature dropped to 16 degrees recently, we stayed in and chopped mushrooms and onions, and together, made her spaghetti sauce.

A slightly updated version. Instead of button mushrooms, Mom now uses Baby Bellas; she also adds red and orange bell pepper along with the green because it makes the sauce more colorful; and fire-roasted diced tomatoes instead of plain. And the Parmesan’s now the real thing instead of the stuff in the green can, which was all that they had at the Piggly Wiggly back in the day.

After the sauce had a chance to simmer for a couple of hours, we sat down together at the kitchen table, and unfolded the same red-and-white napkins in our lap, just as we’d always done. Before I took my first bite, though, Mom pushed back her chair and stood up.

“Wait a minute,” she said.

She opened a drawer, grabbed some matches, and lit a pair of fat red candles that were already on the table.

“Now,” she said, smiling.

It may have just been the two of us, and we might be iced in, but it was spaghetti night, after all.

Mom’s Spaghetti Sauce

INGREDIENTS

1 pound ground sirloin (91%)
1 pound ground chuck (85%)
1 large onion, diced
4 cloves garlic, minced
1 medium carrot, grated finely
10 oz. Baby Bella mushrooms, sliced
⅓ red bell pepper, diced
⅓ green bell pepper, diced
⅓ yellow bell pepper, diced
4 14.5 oz. cans of diced tomatoes (fire-roasted are best)
2 6 oz. cans tomato paste
1 8 oz. can tomato sauce
1 14.5 oz. can tomato sauce
½ teaspoon oregano (powder)
1 tablespoon Italian seasoning
1 teaspoon dried basil
sea salt
freshly cracked black pepper
1 13.25 oz. box package spaghetti
grated Parmesan, for serving (optional)

1. In a large stockpot, put the ground sirloin and ground chuck and turn the heat on medium. Cook until meat is evenly browned, then add the onion, garlic and carrots and cook until the onions begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Now, add the sliced mushrooms, bell peppers, and cans of diced tomatoes, tomato paste, tomato sauce and spices. Cover and reduce heat to a simmer and let cook for an hour. Taste for seasonings.
2. Put a large pot of salted water on to boil. Cook spaghetti according to directions on package, drain, and serve with spaghetti sauce, and grated Parmesan.

]]> http://cowgirlchef.com/2011/02/08/moms-spaghetti-sauce/feed/ 9 http://cowgirlchef.com/2010/03/09/freds-texas-cafe/ http://cowgirlchef.com/2010/03/09/freds-texas-cafe/#comments Tue, 09 Mar 2010 17:30:48 +0000 epierce http://cowgirlchef.com/?p=2089

Sometimes, when things go wrong, it’s for the best — as was the case a couple of weeks ago, when Mom and I discovered Fred’s Texas Cafe in Fort Worth.

We’d just been to the Modern, breezed past the Warhols, and afterwards, we were were both in the mood, turns out, for a big, fat cheeseburger. We went to our favorite burger joint, ordered up our usual burgers, and were so disappointed after one bite, that we left.

Lucky for us, Fred’s Texas Cafe, a Fort Worth institution and award-winning dive, was just a few blocks away. We took our seats on the duct-taped bar stools and ordered up half-pound Fredburgers with cheese and homemade fries, and were soon in burger heaven.

I lost track of the number of napkins needed to get through the whole burger (note the crispy, yet perfectly greasy bun), but get through it I did — and so did Mom.

Next time I’m in town, Mom says that we’re going to Fred’s again, and she’s gonna try the bleu cheese burger. Hmmm. Bleu cheese. Wonder why they haven’t thought of that here in Paris?

Fred’s Texas Cafe
915 Currie Street
Fort Worth, Texas
(817) 332-0083

I had  the most incredible chicken fried steak a couple of months ago in Houston, at Lankford Grocery, which I read about in Jane and Michael Stern’s book, “500 Things to Eat Before It’s Too Late.” The H-town legend is known for its burgers, and I nearly ordered up one, but I simply couldn’t resist the urge to try the CFS since it was the special on the day that I visited.

Oh what a good idea! And it went so well with the Dr. Pepper that I’d ordered.

Eydie Lankford Prior told me that she made her CFS with an egg-buttermilk batter, some salt and pepper, and “Tony’s” (Tony Cachere’s Creole seasoning, it turns out), but I decided to leave out the egg and go for a slightly lighter crust. Not that I’m counting calories, as y’all know. (Do calculators even go that high?)

I made my CFS back in France, with a cut that’s similar to the American cube steak, which is what Eydie uses for hers, and it worked just fine. More than fine, in fact. That’s my CFS pictured above.

And PS. I know that I try to post stuff that’s both quick and easy, but this takes a bit of time – mainly the stirring of the gravy, and the complete hose-down of the kitchen when you’re finished. CFS isn’t for kitchen wimps. Just roll up your sleeves, get in there, and fry fry fry. And maybe we all need to post this, the Lankford Grocery’s Mission Statement, on our fridge when it’s CFS night: “We have nothing small, nothing healthy, and nothing fast.  We never give you a check, but that does not mean it’s free.  You pay at the register as you leave.  If you do not have 30 minutes to spend, you should try us another day.”

I love that. Enjoy the show.

Chicken Fried Steak with Peppery Cream Gravy
Serves 2

INGREDIENTS

2-8 oz. cube steaks, pounded a bit so they’re the same width
2 cups buttermilk
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon Tony Cachere’s Creole seasoning
1 teaspoon pepper
4 cups whole milk
1-2 cups vegetable oil

WHAT YOU DO
1. Pour the buttermilk into a medium bowl and submerge the steaks. I usually let them rest in the buttermilk for a half-hour or so, while I get everything else ready.

2. Now, coat the buttermilk-soaked steaks in the flour mixture, put it back in the buttermilk, and in the flour once more. Set aside.

3. In a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, pour enough vegetable oil to measure about 1/2-inch deep. Turn the heat on medium-high, and using a candy thermometer, watch for the oil to reach 365 degrees. (Note: You’ll want the temperature to stay here, and not dip below, or you’ll get greasy, soggy chicken fried steak.)

4. Fry the steaks, flipping them to the other side when the bottom looks cooked and crispy. (You’ll have to eyeball this; it all depends on the thickness of the steaks, but a 1-inch steak shouldn’t take more than 10-13 minutes total.)

5. With tongs, remove the steaks from the oil and place them on a plate lined with paper towels.

6. Make the gravy. Pour almost all of of the oil out of the skillet, leaving the brown bits (this will give your gravy lots of great flavor). Now, with the skillet turned on medium, sprinkle the leftover flour mixture into the pan and stir until all of the brown bits have lifted off of the surface, and the flour begins to brown. Add the milk and keep stirring briskly, so you don’t get lumps. Lower heat and stir constantly. It’ll take 10-15 to thicken up. Be sure taste before serving. It may need a bit more salt or pepper.

It had been raining in Paris for days. Pounding rain. Whooshes of wind turning umbrellas inside-out rain. Cold, gray skies with no promise of warmth for months. It was definitely time to make a big pot of something, but what, exactly, I wasn’t sure. So, I threw on a few layers, and with my silly ol’ lime green wheely cart in tow, I went to the Casino a few blocks away to see what I could find.

Perusing through the meats, when I spied a 1-kilo (two pounds, approximately) package of poitrine de boeuf (aka beef brisket) for the crazy-low price of 4.51 euros, inspiration struck. I would make something much like a Boeuf Bourguignon, I decided, but with more veggies – root veggies, mostly, all chopped in big, rustic chunks — with some sautéed-in-salty-French-butter mushrooms thrown in at the end.

It was incredible. Sure, it’s a bit rich – a bottle of wine and butter will do that – but oh my gosh, this is one of my finest efforts, if I do say so myself. Would be perfect for a super-casual weeknight dinner party with friends.

This stew’s a winner on a couple of other fronts, too – it’s inexpensive, and it’s easy. Don’t be scared by the long list of ingredients, either — this is just a 30-minute chopping job, and you’re finished. If you’ve got a slow cooker, this dish cooks itself. Oh, and the lemon zest idea I read about somewhere, and you must try this — it brightens up this Frenchy stew like you wouldn’t believe.

Five dang stars.

Beef Burgundy Stew with Root Veggies and Lemon Zest

INGREDIENTS

2 pounds poitrine de boeuf (beef brisket), cut into 2-inch chunks

1 large white or yellow onion, 1/4-inch dice

4 cloves garlic

1 pound small potatoes, halved

4 medium carrots, sliced into 1/4-inch rounds

2 stalks celery, cut into 1/4-inch slices

1 pound turnips, quartered (pieces about 2 inches)

1 14 oz can tomatoes, diced

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 bottle red burgundy

4 cups (1 quart) beef stock (or if you don’t have on hand, simply use water)

2 springs fresh rosemary (or one teaspoon dried)

½ teaspoon oregano

sea salt

pepper

2 cartons white mushrooms

2-3 tablespoons butter

olive oil

lemon zest (for finish)

METHOD

1. In a large skillet, drizzle a bit of olive oil and add the onions. Cook until they just begin to become translucent, about 5 minutes or so. Then, add the chunks of meat and cook just a little bit, 2-3 minutes.

2. Now, put the onions and meat, along with the vegetables (except for the mushrooms; they come later), the wine, and the herbs in a slow cooker*, if you’ve got one, and turn it on low for 8 hours.

3. Let the stew cool and put it in the fridge. You’ll not want to eat this until the next day, when the flavors have matured and the meat is so tender (swear), it practically melts in your mouth.

4. Before serving, quarter the mushrooms and put them in a skillet with the butter and a drizzle of olive oil over medium-high heat. Cook until they begin to brown, then throw them in the soup pot with the stew and let everything warm through.

*You may also make this on the stove, with the heat turned on low for 4-6 hours. If you aren’t sure if it’s ready, just cook it until the meat is super-tender. Serve in shallow bowls with a pinch of lemon zest on top.

When my brother told that he was making shish kabobs for dinner, I thought to myself, “Shish kabobs? Those crazy things on sticks where the veggies and meat are never cooked evenly?”

But wait, I told myself. This is your brother, King of the Grill (his cooker is about the size of a Smart Car). He knows what he’s doing. So, I immediately wiped away all of my bad shish kabob/ex-husband memories from the 80s, and went about my business preparing the salad while my niece and nephew splashed all afternoon in the pool.

Of course his kabobs were juicy, and tasty and perfect in every way. His secret: cooking the meat on one set of skewers, and the veggies on another.

Duh. It seems so obvious, doesn’t it?

Great thing is about these, too, is they cook quickly. You just need to fire up the grill beforehand and let it get nice and hot.

Shish Kabobs

INGREDIENTS

3-4 pounds beef sirloin, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 cup vegetable oil
1 cup soy sauce
¼ cup red wine vinegar
¼ cup Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated
4 cloves garlic, minced
black pepper
sea salt

WHAT YOU DO

1. Mix all of the ingredients together in a bowl.

2. Pour over meat, in a heavy, freezer Ziploc and marinate 6-8 hours or overnight.

3. Slide onto metal skewers (if you use wooden skewers, be sure to soak them in water first for one hour) and grill on each of the four sides of the meat, about one minute each, depending on the size (or you can cook just two sides for two minutes each).

It’s done when you touch it and it feels tender to the touch (medium).

Tip: This is so obvious, but if you don’t know if the meat is done, just slide one off and try it.

A side of veggie kabobs can be anything that you like, but try to put veggies that’ll all cook about the same time onto each skewer. Also best to cook the veggie kabobs first, Alan says, since they take longer than the meat to cook.

He used: cherry tomatoes, onion, portobello mushrooms, yellow squash, red and yellow bell peppers. All were cut about the same size, about two inches, so they’d cook evenly.