Caesar Salad with Polenta Croutons
My ex-husband was a terrible scoundrel, but in the beginning, naturally, he was a dream. He spoke three languages and looked like Kenneth Branagh. On our second date, he presented me with a menu that he’d written, in French, and asked me to choose what I wanted to eat. Then he disappeared into the kitchen, and later emerged with the most delicious roast chicken, baby carrots with butter and honey, and haricots verts that I’d ever tasted. He introduced me to pate and French wines, Nutella (in the late-80s in Dallas, Nutella was a new, exotic spread, available only in gourmet stores), and Caesar salads, which he’d often make for me at home on Sunday afternoons.
He made Caesars the old-school way, with two forks and a large bowl, and he’d gently tear at the anchovies, then pull at the garlic with the tines, and add the rest of the ingredients until it became a thick, pungent sauce. Then, he’d bring in the Romaine, carefully toss and mix until every leaf was coated, throw in heaps of homemade croutons and Parmesan, and divide the salad between two large plates. His attention to detail never failed to impress me, from making sure the lettuce was fresh, to finding the best Parmesan cheese around, which back then meant quite a bit of driving.
When we divorced, I lost my appetite for men with English accents and for Caesar salads, too.
But as these things go, I came around. I found myself starting to crave what I no longer had in my life. Yes, the Caesar had been his salad, much like the gumbo that I’d make in the winter was mine, but enough was enough.
I no longer loved him, but I loved this salad. And I wanted it back.
No sooner had I realized this than a recipe literally fell into my lap. After I interviewed Andree Falls, chef/owner of the restaurant, Parigi, for a story for The Dallas Morning News, she gave me a copy of her self-published cookbook, which included a fantastic recipe for Caesar salad.
This is her recipe. I’ve added Dijon mustard, which my ex used to do. Here, I made polenta croutons because I had some leftover polenta and I thought that it would be fun. Of course, day-old baguettes work just fine, too.
I’ve been making this salad for nearly 20 years now, so I think that I can now say that it’s mine.
Caesar Salad with Polenta Croutons
1 tablespoon anchovy paste (or 1-2 anchovies)
2 cloves garlic, chopped
½ tablespoon lemon zest
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 egg
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
8 ounces olive oil
sea salt
pepper
½ cup parmesan cheese, shaved
3-4 cups croutons*
1. Put all ingredients except olive oil, salt and pepper in a blender and combine.
2. With the blender running on a low speed, slowly add the olive oil in a drizzle until the mixture emulsifies. Salt and pepper to taste. (If you want to make this in advance, simply refrigerate until ready to use.)
3. Cut and wash Romaine lettuce, roll out on tea towels and roll up until ready. (You may want to shove this into the fridge for an hour or two until ready.)
*4. To make croutons, simply cut day-old bread (or polenta, as I’ve done here) into one or two-inch squares, toss in a bowl with olive oil, salt and pepper (I used piment d’Espelette instead of black pepper), spread evenly on a cookie sheet and toast in a 425-degree oven for 10-15 minutes, or until well-browned.
5. To assemble: put lettuce, parmesan shavings, and croutons in a large bowl and add only enough dressing to lightly coat the leaves. Easiest way to toss? Just use your hands. (It’s kinda fun.)
